From silver platters to celebrity couture: How Ellen Hodakova is revolutionizing fashion with upcycled creations

Cate Blanchett had never worn so much silver before. Not in the way of sparkling sequins or hand-applied crystals, which are common on the red carpet, but in the form of silver typically found in one’s cutlery drawer.

In April of the previous year, Blanchett appeared in Vogue China sporting a corset made from two antique silver platters. With her bobbed hair and the ends styled in waves, she looked like a 1950s version of Joan of Arc, with the ornate dishes wrapping around her torso like primitive armor.

That same summer, Blanchett made headlines again when she attended a red carpet event in Los Angeles wearing a halter-neck top made from 102 vintage silver spoons.

By the end of the year, the spoons had been repurposed once more — this time at the Toronto Film Festival in September, where they adorned the black blazer Blanchett wore as a metallic fringe detail.

This combination of tableware transformed into couture was the creation of Ellen Hodakova Larsson, a Swedish designer and founder of the four-year-old independent brand, Hodakova, based in Stockholm.

But it’s not only the kitchen that Larsson draws inspiration from. She has previously made dresses from leather briefcases, bags from belt buckles, and even clutch purses from equestrian riding boots.

Most of her raw materials are sourced from donations of surplus goods provided by various stores and businesses across Sweden.

Larsson explained that the creative process is largely driven by intuition, where she remains open to whatever inspires her, allowing herself to trust in the creative flow without overthinking the outcome.

Since its inception during the pandemic, Hodakova has garnered a distinctive celebrity clientele, with some of Hollywood’s most fashion-forward figures — including Tilda Swinton, Greta Lee, Lady Gaga, Emma Corrin, Saoirse Ronan, and Julia Fox — wearing Larsson’s creations.

Her bold approach to upcycling was recognized when she received the prestigious 2024 LVMH Prize, which included €400,000 and a year’s worth of mentorship from the luxury conglomerate’s executives.

The LVMH judge and Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri acknowledged that Larsson’s project was the first time they had seen a sustainable initiative with tangible, successful results that could be sold commercially.

The concept of "upcycling," coined by German engineer Reiner Pliz in 1994, has been a key part of environmental discussions for decades.

However, Larsson’s interpretation of it feels fresh and new. She focuses on reimagining discarded items, often working with objects that are already fully formed, like ribbon rosettes, ballpoint pens, watch faces, or paper envelopes. 

By repurposing these items without altering their original shape, Larsson creates something entirely new while keeping the integrity of the materials intact.

In Hodakova’s world, almost anything can be transformed into something luxurious — even the most mundane objects. Larsson aims to change the way people view these items, challenging the typical understanding of luxury and encouraging a new perspective on what can be considered valuable.

Larsson grew up on a horse farm in the Swedish countryside, where her family adopted a make-and-mend attitude. They grew their own food, chopped their own wood, and Larsson’s mother made clothes from fabric scraps for her and her brother.

A new garment was never bought but instead created through resourcefulness. This practical, sustainable mindset is at the heart of the Hodakova brand.

Hodakova’s most unique pieces — such as a dress made from a waxed jacket turned inside out, worn by Saoirse Ronan at a recent New York screening of The Outrun — are only available for purchase directly from the brand's website. 

These pieces are made to order, typically taking around three weeks to produce, with slight variations in each garment. More commercially available items can be purchased from one of Larsson’s 24 global stockists, including Dover Street Market and Ssense.

In Larsson’s latest collection, trousers were reimagined in unexpected ways. They were turned into floor-length gowns, double-breasted coats with Peter Pan collars, and even nun wimples.

Each pair of trousers, whether repurposed into a coat sleeve or a dress neckline, still retained its original waistband, complete with a belt. Larsson explained that she has a particular love for trousers, which she enjoys transforming into something entirely new.

Other pieces in the collection included oversized fur coats made from patchwork of discarded fur hats, Medusa-style dresses with belts protruding like serpents, and jackets made from repurposed leather pants.

Amid a global luxury downturn, where many designers have focused on commercially viable collections, Larsson remains focused on her creative purpose. For the final look of her show, she dressed a model in nothing but the shell of a wooden cello.

When asked about the pressure to create wearable pieces for commercial success, Larsson explained that it was more important to act with a good purpose and stay true to her vision. She believes that if one remains committed to their purpose, finding solutions will never be a problem.